Monday, December 27, 2010

Definition of a Skirt

 What is a Skirt?

According to Webster’s Dictionary:

Definition of SKIRT

a (1) : a free-hanging part of an outer garment or undergarment extending from the waist down (2) : a separate free-hanging outer garment or undergarment usually worn by women and girls covering some or all of the body from the waist down b : either of two usually leather flaps on a saddle covering the bars on which the stirrups are hung c : a cloth facing that hangs from the bottom edge or across the front of a piece of furniture d : the lower branches of a tree when near the ground

There are three major silhouettes where skirts are concerned.  But those silhouettes can be achieved through various design and construction methods.

Flared:  Narrower at the hip than at the hemline.
A-Line; Fitted at the hip and gradually widens towards the hem, giving the impression of the shape of a capital letter A.
Godets; Flared triangular sections inserted into garments.
Gored; Vertical strips of fabric that are narrow at the top and wide at the bottom.
Paneled; Strips of fabric the same size at top and bottom.
Tiered; Horizontal strips of fabric gathered and sewn together to form a skirt wider at the hem.
Yoked:  A form fitting yoke across the hip with a fuller skirt attached.  Can be pleated, gathered, paneled or gored.

Full:  Flares from the waist to the hem. 
Circle; Forms a complete circle when laid out on a flat surface.
Dirndl; A full gathered skirt.  It has a narrower line and smaller sweep than the Bouffant.
Bouffant; Tightly gathered at the waist and flares fully at the waist and is very full at the hemline.  This term was only used for a couple of years and refers to the extreme sweeps on some hemlines.
Bubble; Gathered at the waist and hemline to create a Bubble
Bell; Forms a Bell shape at the Hip and is usually a bit narrower at the hemline
Harem; A Bubble skirt that is attached to a narrow band of fabric at the hemline

Straight:  Forms a straight line from the hip to the Hem.
Pencil; Very Narrow Straight Skirt
Wiggle; Narrower at the knee than at the Hip.  The Wiggle skirt is like the Unicorn.  It exists only in people’s imagination.  Some illustrations appear to be a wiggle skirt but if it has a kick pleat or the hem circumference is as wide or wider than the hip line it is not what is considered a Wiggle Skirt. 
Flounced; Straight skirt with wide ruffle, pleats or other treatment at the hem.

Pleats; Fabric is folded and stitched in place.  Pleats can be stitched only at the top or part way down the entire skirt. There are several types of pleats.

Box: Two folds turned away from each other with underfolds meeting in the middle.
Inverted:  Box pleats in reverse with the folds turned toward each other and meeting at the top.
Knife:  Folded over one time so that all folds face in the same direction.
Accordion or Crystal:  Pressed along the entire length with folds resembling the bellows of an accordion.  These pleats are usually done by a commercial pleater. 

Sunday, December 26, 2010

Icon of the 1960's Dog Ear Collar

One of the icon's of the late 60's and early 70's was the exaggerated Dog Ear Collar.   This sweet dress pattern has everything a girl could want from the era.  It's a mini dress, it has a low scoop neckline, long bell sleeves, princess seams, flirty flare skirt and a choice of 2 collars.  The long pointed collar attached to a neck band give the dress a peek-a-boo effect. Of course the huge dog ears are my personal favorite, but if I were making this adorable dress to wear, I would choose the view not shown.  I would give it the scoop neck and have the dog ears attached to the neck band for a peek-a-boo dog ear look.  But any way you make it, this pattern is a definite WINNER!