Knitting and Crochet PDF Patterns Now ONLY on the website.

From the 20's to the 80's...........fabulous knitting and crochet patterns in PDF format......if you are still looking on Etsy for them, stop right there.  I have moved them all to my website. www.cemetarian.com

Browse the Knitting Categories for Knitting patterns in both hard cover and PDF format and the Crochet Categories for Crochet patterns.

Does This Make my Backside Look Big?

Body image and perception is and has been major factor in fashion for centuries. Emphasis on particular body parts change as often as the weather.

Today we'll take a brief walk through a 30 year span where body styles made some drastic changes.

In the 1930's the emphasis was on softness..........soft bodies, and soft fabrics. Non structure is seen in not only the fashions but in the beautiful models who showed the fashions. The Bust to Waist ratio was minimal and the overall look was feminine and rounded.




The 1940s was more structured and tailored. Still very little emphasis on Bust to Waist. The lines were crisper and not as soft. As women entered the workplace in the absence of men during the war, heavier materials and a more masculine flair was introduced with broader shoulders and narrower hips.


The 1950s brought a new femininity back to fashion. As women went back into the home and women's interests, the whole silhouette changed again. Now the fashion directive was on tiny waists with form fitting sweaters and huge circle skirts that emphasized the Hour Glass Figure.



The 60s started with the same Hour Glass body image, but soon morphed into a more casual feel as women worked both in the home and outside the home. We demanded comfort as well as fashion. Pants were more accepted in casual settings than they had been previously. But close fitting pants demanded longer tops to cover them (for modesty's sake).

This brings me to today's title.............I love this sweater and would wear it in a New York Minute (as a matter of fact I did wear one comparable in 1963)...........but I can't help wondering what the photographer and the company was thinking when they did this shoot.

All I can think of is today's classic question.

Does this make my butt look big?


These fabulous crochet and knitting patterns can be found at both cemetarian on Etsy and cemetarian.com

College and High School Yearbooks

We know that Fashion Magazines and Vintage sewing patterns gives us a glimpse into yesteryear. But there is nothing that gives us a Moment in Time, quite like a High School or College Yearbook. A yearbook is a Time Capsule on paper. It shows how students REALLY lived, and not a glamorized version like glossy magazines.

This beautiful girl was featured in the 1926 Locust Yearbook from East Texas College in Commerce which is now part of the A & M University.


These girls were the Pepperettes (I'm assuming that is the Pep Squad) at Beaumont High School in St Louis Missouri in 1938. The Yearbook is called The Caduceus.


Life Was Hectic for these Austin College Students in 1941, at least according to the yearbook called The Chromascope.



And even though Fashions may change, there is always a Beauty Queen who exemplifies the standards of the day. This beauty is from Peabody Teachers College in Nashville, in 1959. The yearbook is entitled The Pillar.



1964, still had it's Kings and Queens as shown in this Abilene Texas High School Yearbook the Flashlight.


All of these books and more can be found in the Yearbook Category at www.cemetarian.com

Let's Celebrate the 30's and 40's this week

What a glamorous time it was........rich fabrics, interesting construction, attention to detail..........that just don't make stuff like this anymore.

Black Linen 1930's dress from Cartwright Designed by Martha Gale. It has more than 100 buttons on it. And an early metal side zipper.



1940s Blood Red Rayon Crepe dress with the most interesting peek a boo or Keyhole neckline. And a shirred tummy panel. No makers label.



Pure Silk 1940s Rembrandt Dress with fabulous side drape.


OOAK Slipper satin strapless evening gown with crumb catcher and cummerbund and appliqued net overskirt.....also has a sweet little shoulder cape.


Another OOAK Slipper Satin gown. This one has a wonderful off shoulder Bertha Collar and luscious tiered skirt.

On Independence Day Let's Remember WWII

And let's Boogie to the Andrews Sister and look at some Fabulous mid 40's Fashions brought to us by McCall Pattern Company.



















Pattern Book can be found this week at cemetarian on eBay

Make and Mend For VICTORY

When I found this booklet in my stash this morning, I said to myself "Self, how appropriate for the current economic situation?"



Make and Mend for Victory published in 1942 by the Spool Cotton Company.

We all know that during the war housewives all over the country pitched in, not only as Rosie the Riveter by taking their place in the factories, but by conserving everything they could at home.

This little booklet has a CONSUMER'S VICTORY PLEDGE:

"As a consumer, in the total defense of democracy, I will do my part to make my home, my community, my country ready, efficient, strong. I will buy carefully -- I will take good care of the things I have -- I will waste nothing --


The booklet spells out just how to accomplish this with the wardrobe you have on hand.

Of course the first sections are about mending and altering garments...............but the fun part comes when they start to describe how you can utilize collars, and jabots to dress up your plain everyday dresses. (complete with instructions)

There's a great section on Smart Headwork ....A Ball of Yarn a Scrap of Felt and YOU....Looking like a Fashion Photo.

But the very best sections are the ones on remaking garments. You Have the Goods on Him (How to cut his suit down to fit YOU) and The Shirt Off His Back (Making childrens blouses and dresses from his old shirts).

And my final favorite...............There's Life in the Old Girl Yet (How to make a Jerkin from a Dress, a Jumper from a dress, Playsuit from a dress and a Bathing Suit from a dress)

The Front fly page of the book gives us these words of wisdom, which I think we might should take to heart, 64 years later.

"It's up to you to keep the home fires burning, to see that you and your family stay easy-on-the-eyes. Fortunately, you cane be patriotic and pretty both. It's easy to teach an old wardrobe new tricks, to resurrect the skeletons in your closet and bring them up to date. Come on, take those old knockabouts and turn them into knockouts, keep that glint in Uncle Sam's eye and still do your stint towards Victory!"

Find it HERE

Evolution of Women's Career Suits

With more women entering the work force during World War II, the clerical jobs formerly occupied by men were filled with women. Trying to maintain some status and not look frivolous in the serious world of commerce and industry, women adopted a Masculine Look with Wide padded shoulders and complete covering from neck to below the knee. But you will notice that they did manage to keep a semblance of femininity with a very fitted waistline and peplum jackets that emphasized their hips.

This lovely Gabardine suit, found on Babylon Mall, is completely dart fitted in front and back and the peplum jacket flares nicely over a pencil slim skirt.

Vintage 1940's Sexy Fitted Navy Blue Gabardine Suit Sm

After Johnny Came Marching Home, women we reluctant to give up their new found status in the professional world and some managed to keep their jobs and opened new employment opportunities for young women who wanted a career instead of a life of domestic bliss (notice that both was seldom an option at this time.)

The 50's ushered in a similar but softening look in career wear. These three suits have a less structured feel although in the first shoulder pads are still prominent but smaller. The waist is softened with velvet trim on the jacket and a velvet pocket. The Pumpkin Spice flecked suit is boxy over a still slim skirt. But the fabric flows and shows all those feminine curves within the box. And the 3rd in this series is Femininity Personified. Fitted waist, small peplum that is enhanced with ruched trim and a full flared skirt and don't forget the lower V neckline.

Vintage 1950's Black Rayon Crepe Suit with Asymmetrical Trim & Pocket
Vintage 1950s Pumpkin Spice Sexy Secretary 2pc

Vintage 1950's Black Faille Fitted Peplum Flare Skirt Suit

The 60's brought us a very new look with the influence of Jackie Kennedy. Her taste and particular figure requirements brought us the A line skirt and short boxy yet softer jackets. Less emphasis on the waistline and more emphasis on the Total LOOK!

These three beauties are all distinctly tailored for that Classic Chic Jackie Style.

The first is a pink brocade with glittery buttons. The 2nd is a blue shantung with heavily beaded collar and the last is a heavy slubbed silk in pink with cranberry trim and a ruffled cranberry collar.

Vintage 1960's Pink Silk Brocade 3pc Set B38 Neiman Marcus

Vintage 1960's Blue Silk Beaded 3 pc Chic Jackie Set B40 NOS

Vintage 1960's Pink Slubbed Silk with 3 pc Suit B38 (not listed yet)

Just prior to the British Invasion and the MOD era, swingy pleated skirts and lowered waistlines were not only casual and comfy but practical and just plain fun to wear. This fab suit from Donavan Galvani is a cranberry and wine combo. The skirt is pleated and the jacket is semi fitted in the waist with a belt. Shawl collar and ribbed sleeves finish off the look.

Vintage 1960s Donovan Galvani Berry Tweed Knit

When to offer Incomplete Patterns!

A recent discussion on one of my Chat Boards led to the question, When to offer incomplete patterns.

The general agreement was that most Vintage patterns have some value. Even if there are missing pieces or missing instructions. I happened to be checking a batch that very afternoon and ran across these three that are all flawed.......but still have value to someone.

This adorable 30's Butterick is missing the instructions and is unprinted. But for a designer or costumer or the experienced tailor/seamstress it would be no major issue to construct this fabulous sports outfit. It has a halter top, loose pleated shorts, polo style shirt and flared button front skirt. Now who in their right mind could throw this away?

And this BEAUTY from 1939. The detailing is exquisite. The sad thing is that the Skirt Front piece is missing. But again, someone with experience could reconstruct the skirt by using the back of the skirt and the bodice pieces. So again it's value may be lessened but it is not worthless.



And finally................the bodice treatment on this 1945 dress is unique and stunning and Oh So Flattering. But the entire pattern is missing and all that is left is the drawing and the instructions. But do we destroy it? Heavens NO! This would be a fantastic creative project for a design student or even the more seasoned designer. Take the instructions and figure out how to cut and sew this lovely dress.

Wedding Gowns Thru the Decades

For your viewing pleasure just a stroll through the decades and how Wedding and Bridal Fashions changed.

Are Patterns and Fashion Your Passion?

If so, there is a new Pattern Archive on the scene.
Nancy, at O Gal has created one of the most beautiful and interactive Pattern Resource sites on the web. It is easy to use and is building to be quite an impressive collection. So go check it out and let's keep the passion for fashion going strong.



And of course one some of the best selections of Vintage Patterns on the web be sure to visit our website Cemetarian We Dig Memories!