Icon of the 1960's Dog Ear Collar

One of the icon's of the late 60's and early 70's was the exaggerated Dog Ear Collar.   This sweet dress pattern has everything a girl could want from the era.  It's a mini dress, it has a low scoop neckline, long bell sleeves, princess seams, flirty flare skirt and a choice of 2 collars.  The long pointed collar attached to a neck band give the dress a peek-a-boo effect. Of course the huge dog ears are my personal favorite, but if I were making this adorable dress to wear, I would choose the view not shown.  I would give it the scoop neck and have the dog ears attached to the neck band for a peek-a-boo dog ear look.  But any way you make it, this pattern is a definite WINNER!

 

True Vintage versus Vintage Style

I received the following email this morning: 

"Hello,

Below is a copy of my receipt and the recipent just advised me that the wrong size was shipped. Please advise the best way to exchange the pattern for a size 4 and not the size 12 that was shipped."

When I informed her that a size 4 did not exist in 1962 for sewing patterns and that the bust, waist and hip measurements given on the envelope was what you needed to utilize when buying vintage sewing patterns, she responded:

"Thank you, the recipient & I were not aware of that."

This communication, triggered me to re-post this very valuable bit of information.

Most people who sew know that a manufactured dress size and a dress pattern size have nothing in common.  This guide is purely for fun and to show the changes in standard sizing for dress patterns through the years.  It has nothing to do with the little tag on a dress in the department store. Sizes weren't routinely listed on all patterns until around 1940.  Prior to WWII the sizing was strictly related to the bust measurement. Here is a brief look at the changes in a  Size 12  from 1930-2000

1930- Bust 30  Waist 25   Hip 33	1940- Bust 30  Waist 25   Hip 33
1955- Bust 30 Waist 24 Hip 33	1960-Bust 32 Waist 25 Hip 34
1970-Bust 34  Waist 25.5  Hip 36	1975-2000 Bust 34 Waist 26.5  Hip 36

So, as you can see there is quite a difference in the fit, silhouette, and sizing of vintage patterns throughout the past 60 years.

Most Pattern sellers will list the Bust Size in the title of the listing so you can browse at your leisure instead of plowing through multiple listing only to find the pattern won't fit.  An experienced and talented person who sews can always moderate and alter a pattern up or down, but it's nice to know what you are getting from the beginning.

And to add a new addendum for those just entering the world of true Vintage and not Vintage Style.  True vintage sewing patterns are not easily found and can't be produced with the click of a finger.  They are no longer manufactured, and those offered for sale are found in various places in various conditions and they are old.  They weren't printed last week or even last year. Your seller has found them in an Estate Sale or some other type of situation and they have taken the time to check the pieces and make sure the pattern is complete and if it has been used lovingly or abused terribly.  So please read the descriptions and make your purchasing decisions based on your own personal needs and the information (or in some case, lack of information) given.  And never hesitate to ask questions if you are in doubt.

My sincerest wish is for each and everyone of you to have a Joyous Holiday for whatever occasion you celebrate this season.

How Silhouettes Change in 15 years 1950 to 1964

It doesn't matter if it's patterns, advertisements or actual clothing, when you are working with a large lot of fashion over a period of years, you learn to date certain silhouettes at a glance.

In listing these 4 patterns today, I realized that the finer points of the changes aren't just in the price, logo placement and art work, but in the width and length of the skirt and undergarments, placement of the waist and emphasis or lack of such, on the bust line.

This lovely 1950 party dress is strapless and fitted, but has emphasis on the hips with the peplum. The skirt is full but lays gracefully instead of being puffed up with petticoats. Skirt length is mid calf.



By 1955 the emphasis is on an Hour glass figure with a dropped waist (this style is often called a Long Torso), and very full skirt held out by layers and layers of petticoats. The skirt length drops to 3/4 of the way below the knee almost to the ankle.


In 1961 choose slim or full skirt under a fitted midriff with major emphasis on the bustline. Puffy skirt stars at the waist and is once again held out by layers of petticoats but the puff starts at the waistline, not below. Skirts are shorter but still well below the knee.


1964 brigs us slim but not the form fitting sheath of the 50's. This styling is softer and less structured and emphasizes the bust without being obvious. The waspish waist is gone and slim hips prevail. The skirt is still below the knee but higher than the past 15 years.




All of these and many many more can be found at www.cemetarian.com

Dog Days of Summer Revisited! SALE!!!!

The Romans referred to the dog days as diēs caniculārēs and associated the hot weather with the star Sirius. They considered Sirius to be the "Dog Star" because it is the brightest star in the constellation Canis Major (Large Dog). Sirius is also the brightest star in the heavens besides the Sun. The term "Dog Days" was used earlier by the Greeks (see, e.g., Aristotle's Physics, 199a2).

The Dog Days originally were the days when Sirius rose just before or at the same time as sunrise (heliacal rising), which is no longer true, owing to precession of the equinoxes. The Romans sacrificed a brown dog at the beginning of the Dog Days to appease the rage of Sirius, believing that the star was the cause of the hot, sultry weather.

Dog Days were popularly believed to be an evil time "when the seas boiled, wine turned sour, dogs grew mad, and all creatures became languid, causing to man burning fevers, hysterics, and phrensies" according to Brady’s Clavis Calendarium, 1813.

If you Knit, Crochet or Sew, or know someone who does, cemetarian can help cool down those Dog Days of Summer with patterns for swim and play. From the 1930s through the 1990s. We have Knitting, Crochet and Sewing patterns available.

And just a reminder, to help you beat the Dog Days of Summer approach, we are offering a Doggie Discount. Until Aug 15th use the coupon code Dog Days and receive a 15% discount on your total at checkout.

Summertime is BBQ and Outdoor Grilling Time!

That means aprons! Or at least it used to mean aprons...........LOL In a dressier era, aprons kept the grease and splash from Barbeque sauce off your good clothes. Today, not so much. A T-shirt and Jeans wash pretty easy. But for those of us who still like to wear an apron, here is a wonderful variety from the 30's to the 70's. All of these patterns and more can be found in our Apron Category on www.cemetarian.com


Great yoked 1935 Smock covers all and protects all, no matter how messy the world gets around you.


More modernized 1959 version is full length and wraps for comfort. It even has a little appliques pear with your initial. Wear it over your shorts to protect your legs while flipping those burgers.



1972 brings us a unisex version of the bib apron and this one has all kinds of cute appliques and there's even a girly version with ruffles and lace.



Or if you are into jeans and really like the Western look......how about a pair of apron chaps. These even have detachable mitts and pot holders.


If Designer Wear is the only thing that will touch your back......then this Betsy Johnson Tunic is for you...........how adorable is this? They call it a tunic, but I call it an Apron.



And don't forget the Anniversary Sale going on...........just go to our front page to get the code. Good until the 9th of July.

Happy Birthday America and Happy Birthday Cemetarian.com

As American Celebrates it's Anniversary on the 4th of July, we are celebrating our 4th Anniversary here at Cemetarian.com.

For the past few weeks I have been working hard to get 4000 in our inventory. This has been a difficult goal to achieve. Mainly due to the fact that every time I would get close, our wonderful customers would purchase more things and the Inventory number would drop...........THANK YOU ALL. LOL But this morning I finally hit that 4000 number. Don't let it stay there long!

In appreciation of all our fabulous customers we are offering a 20% discount on everything on the site. At checkout use the coupon code Freedom and receive your discount.

Thank you all for your fabulous support these past 4 years and we look forward to serving you for many years to come.

I just listed a small lot of 1930's patterns, all at very reasonable prices but that 20% discount makes them even more reasonable.

Happy Birthday America and Happy Birthday Cemetarian.com

As America celebrates 234 years of Independence, we celebrate our own attempt at Freedom with our 4th Anniversary of www.cemetarian.com.

To share our celebration with all of our Fabulous customers we are offering 20% off on ALL website purchases from now until the 9th of July. Just use the coupon code Freedom and receive your discount. And remember shipping within the USA is FREE.

From the Absurd to the Sublime 1989 Revisited

It was a time of extremes.........extreme hair, extreme clothing, extreme TV shows.....remember Dynasty?

The shoulder treatment of the late 80's took the best of the late 30's puff sleeves and put them together with the worst of the 40's Joan Crawford look and came up with this pattern below.........add the Carmen Miranda diagonal ruffle on the hip and what you got was an atrocious silhouette.



And then there was this lovely and flattering dress.......flat front with princess styling and those side hip pleats are soft and swingy. The wide shoulders are softened by the wide scoop neckline and sweet collar. The 3/4 sleeve version is my favorite........but whatever your taste, the 80's had it to offer.



Find these and more in the Patterns from the 80's section at cemetarian.com

Viva Las Vegas.........it's coming soon

And all of these (and more) lovely Rockabilly patterns can be found on www.cemetarian.com...

A Day in the Life of a Mad Men Era Teen - Friday

Dear Diary, It's midnight and the one time Mama and Daddy let me stay out past my 10:00 curfew. After the Football game they let me go with Bobby and Linda and Billy to the Victory Dance and I'm glad our team won so I didn't waste dressing up in my new gingham dress with the big round collar. Bobby got mad when he found out I like the new Crystals song He's a Rebel
hehehe, if only he knew why I like that song so much.

A Day in the Life of a Mad Men Era Teen - Thursday

Dear Diary, I forgot that we were having a Sock Hop in the Gym after school today. Thank goodness I was wearing my pleated dress and my loafers. And of course they played the new Marcie Blane song Bobby's Girl which Bobby asked me to dance to. He's so dreamy.

A Day in the Life of a Mad Men Era Teen - Wednesday

Dear Diary, not much happened at school today just the same ole things. But I rushed home to get my homework done cause it's Weds night and Bobby just might come by to take me to get a Coke. I've got my hair brushed and it's not too bad, not quite as good as it was Monday. I sure wish Mama would let me wash it more than once a week. But she won't so I just do what I can with it and hope for the best. After I got my chores and homework done, I put on the pants, blouse and little cropped top that's part of the new outfit that Mama had made for me to start school in. This is about the only time I get to wear pants ......... hehehe.....if Bobby comes by he'll "catch me in my slacks" and Mama won't make me change clothes. She'll just let me go. Daddy will frown, but he'll get over it. I sure do like wearing pants instead of skirts and those icky stockings.

A Day in the Life of a Mad Men Era Teen - Tuesday

Dear Diary, After school today was Horizon Club and we had fun. Since our group has moved up and become the Elders, we are trying to teach the younger Camp Fire Girls some of the things they have to look forward to at camp next summer. Linda and I swapped sweaters this afternoon. Her pink one goes better with my new grey and white dress with the dickey and my grey sweater looks better with that pretty pink shirtwaist her Mom made last spring.

A Day in the Life of a Mad Men Era Teen - Monday

Dear Diary, I'm really sleepy tonight. I rolled my hair again last night and didn't get a wink of sleep, cause these rollers kept pokin' me in the head. But my hair sure looked good this morning when met Bobby in the bus parking lot so he could walk me to my first class. I hope he noticed how shinny and curly it was. Mama had my dress made last week and Bobby said it brings out the blue in my eyes and I like the way it looks with my new black suede flats. If I could just wear it with socks and penny loafers instead, I'd be really happy. These garters and stockings are real hard to handle after PE. I never seem to get them back on just right. But Mama says, that's the price we girls pay for wanting to look pretty. But she doesn't have to climb 2 flights of stairs to get to class every hour. At least I've got Bobby to carry my books.

A Day in the Life of a Mad Men Era Teen - Sunday

Dear Diary, Church was good this morning. Joyce and I sat on the back pew and watched all the boys down front. I wore my dress and matching coat with that cute little roller hat. It mashed my hair down but I managed to get it sprayed and fluffed before Joyce and I went skating. I wore my new pleated dress to the Skating rink because it's so easy to skate in and looks good with my skates. My pink pom poms contrast nicely with the grey of the dress since Mama had the collar made in pink. I sure wish Bobby skated, but he just doesn't like to go to the Rink. But I met the cutest guy and we skated all the couples skates. I really like Bobby Vinton's new song, Roses are Red but the really fun one is to click and clack to The Wanderer by Dion...........he's so dreamy..................

Put on Your Best Bib and Tucker!

For a week I've been handling this pattern. Scanning, writing, listing, etc.........and every time I look at View D, that phrase pops in my mind. The tucked bib, just screams "Put on your Best Bib and Tucker"...so I decided to look up Bib and Tucker and find out exactly what that means.




Of course all of us of a certain age, remember the phrase, we grew up with it and it translated to "Put on your Sunday Go to Meetin' clothes". But where did the phrase originate and what did it originally mean?

I found several references.


On The Phrase Finder , I found this definition:

This term originated not in any figurative sense, but literally - both bibs and tuckers were items of women's clothing from the 17th to late 19th centuries.

Early bibs were somewhat like modern day bibs, although they weren't specifically used to protect clothes from spilled food as they are now. Tuckers were lace pieces fitted over the bodice - sometimes called 'pinners' or 'modesty pieces'. These were known by the late 17th century and were described by Randle Holme in The Academy of Armory, or a Storehouse of Armory and Blazon, 1688:

"A Pinner or Tucker, is a narrow piece of Cloth - which compasseth the top of a Womans Gown about the Neck part."

Tuckers, as the name suggests, were originally tucked in. Pinners differed by being pinned rather than tucked. Pinner is clearly the precursor of pinafore - originally pin-a-fore, i.e. pinned on the front.

On World Wide Word I found this which says roughly the same thing:

A tucker was a bit of lace worn around the neck and top of the bodice by 17th-18th century women, presumably something that was tucked in; the bib was closely related to our modern term — a shirt-front or covering for the breast. The expression is first recorded from the middle of the eighteenth century, initially only for women and girls, as you might expect, but later on also to men, when the words had become a fixed phrase and disengaged from their real meanings. Before then, the common expression seems to have been best bib and band (band meaning collar), also commonly used for men as well as women, which continued after the new term had come into use, though it seems to have died out at the end of the eighteenth century. The word derives from the same source as the tucker of food, but is unconnected in meaning.

Now you know all about Bibs and Tuckers.

You can find this and many more fabulous blouse patterns at cemetarian

Trick or Treat!

It's costume time.....and do we have a selection for you. All sizes, all types and all vintage eras.....Just search costume at www.cemetarian.com



We have Sylvester and Tweety Bird, Colonial Dames, Clowns and Jesters, The Sound of Music, Devils, Santa Clause, Jeannie, Zorro, The Lone Ranger, Tonto, Silver, Scout and of course the normal assortment of bunnies, kitties and even a Robot or two.

Heads up, Granma!

This just in! A rather large lot of vintage infant and toddler patterns, all with smocking details. From the 50's with one beautiful infant dress from 1936. During the next few days, I will be listing these particular six patterns on cemetarian at eBay. But there are duplicates in various sizes that will be added to cemetarian.com

These and other adorable childrens patterns from the 1930's thru 2004 are easy to find by searching these categories!

Infants
Toddlers
Girls 0-3
Girls 4-7
Girls 8-12
Boys