Definition of a Skirt

 What is a Skirt?

According to Webster’s Dictionary:

Definition of SKIRT

1

a (1) : a free-hanging part of an outer garment or undergarment extending from the waist down (2) : a separate free-hanging outer garment or undergarment usually worn by women and girls covering some or all of the body from the waist down b : either of two usually leather flaps on a saddle covering the bars on which the stirrups are hung c : a cloth facing that hangs from the bottom edge or across the front of a piece of furniture d : the lower branches of a tree when near the ground

There are three major silhouettes where skirts are concerned.  But those silhouettes can be achieved through various design and construction methods.

 

Flared:  Narrower at the hip than at the hemline.

A-Line; Fitted at the hip and gradually widens towards the hem, giving the impression of the shape of a capital letter A.

Godets; Flared triangular sections inserted into garments.

Gored; Vertical strips of fabric that are narrow at the top and wide at the bottom.

Paneled; Strips of fabric the same size at top and bottom.

Tiered; Horizontal strips of fabric gathered and sewn together to form a skirt wider at the hem.

Yoked:  A form fitting yoke across the hip with a fuller skirt attached.  Can be pleated, gathered, paneled or gored.

 

 

Full:  Flares from the waist to the hem. 

Circle; Forms a complete circle when laid out on a flat surface.

Dirndl; A full gathered skirt.  It has a narrower line and smaller sweep than the Bouffant.

Bouffant; Tightly gathered at the waist and flares fully at the waist and is very full at the hemline.  This term was only used for a couple of years and refers to the extreme sweeps on some hemlines.

Bubble; Gathered at the waist and hemline to create a Bubble

Bell; Forms a Bell shape at the Hip and is usually a bit narrower at the hemline

Harem; A Bubble skirt that is attached to a narrow band of fabric at the hemline

Straight:  Forms a straight line from the hip to the Hem.

Pencil; Very Narrow Straight Skirt

Wiggle; Narrower at the knee than at the Hip.  The Wiggle skirt is like the Unicorn.  It exists only in people’s imagination.  Some illustrations appear to be a wiggle skirt but if it has a kick pleat or the hem circumference is as wide or wider than the hip line it is not what is considered a Wiggle Skirt. 

Flounced; Straight skirt with wide ruffle, pleats or other treatment at the hem.

 

Pleats; Fabric is folded and stitched in place.  Pleats can be stitched only at the top or part way down the entire skirt. There are several types of pleats.

Box: Two folds turned away from each other with underfolds meeting in the middle.

Inverted:  Box pleats in reverse with the folds turned toward each other and meeting at the top.

Knife:  Folded over one time so that all folds face in the same direction.

Accordion or Crystal:  Pressed along the entire length with folds resembling the bellows of an accordion.  These pleats are usually done by a commercial pleater. 

Icon of the 1960's Dog Ear Collar

One of the icon's of the late 60's and early 70's was the exaggerated Dog Ear Collar.   This sweet dress pattern has everything a girl could want from the era.  It's a mini dress, it has a low scoop neckline, long bell sleeves, princess seams, flirty flare skirt and a choice of 2 collars.  The long pointed collar attached to a neck band give the dress a peek-a-boo effect. Of course the huge dog ears are my personal favorite, but if I were making this adorable dress to wear, I would choose the view not shown.  I would give it the scoop neck and have the dog ears attached to the neck band for a peek-a-boo dog ear look.  But any way you make it, this pattern is a definite WINNER!

 

True Vintage versus Vintage Style

I received the following email this morning: 

"Hello,

Below is a copy of my receipt and the recipent just advised me that the wrong size was shipped. Please advise the best way to exchange the pattern for a size 4 and not the size 12 that was shipped."

When I informed her that a size 4 did not exist in 1962 for sewing patterns and that the bust, waist and hip measurements given on the envelope was what you needed to utilize when buying vintage sewing patterns, she responded:

"Thank you, the recipient & I were not aware of that."

This communication, triggered me to re-post this very valuable bit of information.

Most people who sew know that a manufactured dress size and a dress pattern size have nothing in common.  This guide is purely for fun and to show the changes in standard sizing for dress patterns through the years.  It has nothing to do with the little tag on a dress in the department store. Sizes weren't routinely listed on all patterns until around 1940.  Prior to WWII the sizing was strictly related to the bust measurement. Here is a brief look at the changes in a  Size 12  from 1930-2000

1930- Bust 30  Waist 25   Hip 33	1940- Bust 30  Waist 25   Hip 33
1955- Bust 30 Waist 24 Hip 33	1960-Bust 32 Waist 25 Hip 34
1970-Bust 34  Waist 25.5  Hip 36	1975-2000 Bust 34 Waist 26.5  Hip 36

So, as you can see there is quite a difference in the fit, silhouette, and sizing of vintage patterns throughout the past 60 years.

Most Pattern sellers will list the Bust Size in the title of the listing so you can browse at your leisure instead of plowing through multiple listing only to find the pattern won't fit.  An experienced and talented person who sews can always moderate and alter a pattern up or down, but it's nice to know what you are getting from the beginning.

And to add a new addendum for those just entering the world of true Vintage and not Vintage Style.  True vintage sewing patterns are not easily found and can't be produced with the click of a finger.  They are no longer manufactured, and those offered for sale are found in various places in various conditions and they are old.  They weren't printed last week or even last year. Your seller has found them in an Estate Sale or some other type of situation and they have taken the time to check the pieces and make sure the pattern is complete and if it has been used lovingly or abused terribly.  So please read the descriptions and make your purchasing decisions based on your own personal needs and the information (or in some case, lack of information) given.  And never hesitate to ask questions if you are in doubt.

My sincerest wish is for each and everyone of you to have a Joyous Holiday for whatever occasion you celebrate this season.

Ever Wish you had known the original owner?

I do.  Often I fantasize about the life they lived in the wonderful clothes they left behind.  This was one fiesty lady in the 50's.  She loved her circle skirts and kept them all.  And I'm so glad she did.  Now I can pass them on to another generation who will love them too.

 This is possibly my favorite.  It is hand painted by Carmona and shows the premier Bullfighter of the 1940's and 1950's,   Miguel Baez Litri
.

This one is unsigned, but is exquisitely done and shows the Sunset Skyline of Mexico City.

Beautiful Black on Ecru Aztec print is embellished with silver clad sequins.  Scrumptious.

A Mariachi Band borders the hemline of this tie waist circle skirt.  Then it is banded with colorful musical instruments, exotic flowers and Fiesta Jugs.

This one is not Mexican but is homemade with the sweetest and most fantastical mythical beasties prancing all over it.

All are or will be listed soon on cemetarian on eBay.

Skants Revisited!!! or Everything Old is New Again.

Remember back in January of 09.........this post....about this pattern for wrap around pant skirt called "Skants"?

well guess what?  Skants are back in a newer and I think more user friendly version.  These are sized more appropriately and come with the pattern for 2 stretch knit tops, shoes, hat and bag.  If you are planning a winter cruise..........this is the complete wardrobe for your trip.

This and many more casual and beach wear patterns in both vintage and more contemporary styles can all be found at www.cemetarian.com