Viva La 1960's

The 1960's saw more radical change in fashion than any other decade. From the structured, waist cinching 50's the emphasis in the early 60's was on a straighter line that was both slimming and elongating. These examples from 1963 show that both silhouette's were popular and women could choose the most flattering style for their body type, and not be forced into a particular mold.


In 1964, as shown below, the emphasis was still on 2 piece dresses, but with the straightend waist line.



1965, has more dresses and ensembles but even the sweaters are longer and do not emphasize the waist. Skirts are straight or pleated and pants are still skinny.

1966 starts to soften a bit with more flare to the hemline by way of A line skirts and coats. Luxurious trims in fur and fringe soften the lines also.



By 1967, dresses and coats are so simple with little structural detail. But interest and curves were created with color and pattern. Lots of color and lots of texture.


1968 become a bit more subdued, earthier colors and a back to nature trend is brought on in part by the folk loving hippie movement. Even the styles for mature women reflect a more Natural look.


In 1969, color and optics once again pop up while maintaining the natural look and feel in clothing. OP Art paired with Folk Art creates some stunning fashions.


All images are from Knitting and Crochet patterns books from the years sited. All can be found at Needlecraft on cemetarian.com

Mad Men Sweaters........Hot Hot Hot

Three SWeeeeeeet sweaters. They could be from the very late 50's but I really think they are very early 60's.........but whenever they are from they are Special........

The brown one is an unmarked fabric. It has the feel and look of an Angora blend. There is no label on it, just a Dry Cleaners tag. So that leads me to believe that it is at least a blend of natural and synthetic and not all synthetic yarn. It has a double collar and ribbed cuffs at sleeve end and waist. Bust measures 36 inches.


This pretty yellow sweater has beautiful leaves stamped on the front. Ribbed collar, cuffs and waist with grosgrain ribbon binding on the front facing. It is Orlon/Acrylic and from Devon the bust measures 34.


This Rusty Red Beauty is a Pendelton Wool and is marked a Size 38. The bust measures 40. It has a ribbed collar, cuffs and the front facing is ribbed also.........


All can be found this week on cemetarian on eBay

From the Absurd to the Sublime 1989 Revisited

It was a time of extremes.........extreme hair, extreme clothing, extreme TV shows.....remember Dynasty?

The shoulder treatment of the late 80's took the best of the late 30's puff sleeves and put them together with the worst of the 40's Joan Crawford look and came up with this pattern below.........add the Carmen Miranda diagonal ruffle on the hip and what you got was an atrocious silhouette.



And then there was this lovely and flattering dress.......flat front with princess styling and those side hip pleats are soft and swingy. The wide shoulders are softened by the wide scoop neckline and sweet collar. The 3/4 sleeve version is my favorite........but whatever your taste, the 80's had it to offer.



Find these and more in the Patterns from the 80's section at cemetarian.com

Frank Patania Sr Silver Disc Flying Saucer

Viewed from the side, the profile of this simple and elegant pin reminds one of a Mid Century rendering of a flying saucer. This may or may not be indicative of the southwest in the 1950's and 1960s. After all Roswell is close by.

Whatever the influence, this sterling piece by Frank Patania Sr, is stunning in it's simplicity.

If you aren't familiar with the Patania Thunderbird Shop, which has spanned 3 generations and 80 years creating fine art jewelry, you should check out The Patania Family and see what it's all about.

Inducted into the Smithsonian Institution's permanent collection, Patania since the 1920's, the Patania Design Line features the most sought-out designs and illustrates the distinct craftsmanship from each of the three generations: Frank Patania Sr., Frank Patania Jr., and Samuel Frank Patania.

The Smithsonian Institution
Washington DC's National Episcopal Cathedral
Museum of International Folk Art
Paul Newman
Nancy Sinatra
Billy Bob Thornton
Linda Ronstadt
John Wayne
Greer Garson
Princess Margaret
Stanley Marcus of Nieman-Marcus
Georgia O'Keefe
Ansel Adams
Elizabeth Kimberly of Kimberly-Clark


This elegantly simple piece can be found by clicking on the photo.

DeLizza & Elster's Juliana Jewelry

DeLizza & Elster was a costume jewelry design house that was in business from the late 1940's through the 1980's. Today, their "Juliana" line is a favorite of collectors. The line was designed, manufactured and sent to boutiques and department stores with only hang tags to identify the jewelry. The pieces were never stamped or marked. So how do you know a particular piece is a true D&E Juliana jewel?

Juliana Jewelry the DeLizza & Elster Educational Site has pages and pages and pages of albums with pieces that have been verified or declared NOT D & E by Mr DeLizza and a committee of knowledgable experts on D & E jewelry. There are even pages of how to identify particular stones and design techniques.

Don't go there unless you have time to spend and your eyes are ready to be dazzled by all the sparklies.

I was pleasantly surprised when I submitted this piece to the site for verification and received an email the next morning telling me "Congratulations your pieces has been confirmed as a D & E piece" They even added it to the Verified album that very day. These people don't fool around and they really know their stuff.

So if you have a stunning piece that is unmarked.......go visit the site and maybe you'll be in for a surprise too.

This lovely Tiered Brooch with Adventurine Art Glass and Topaz and Peridot Marquise cut Rhinestones can be found by clicking on the photo....





"For years collectors wondered about the mysterious creator of the Juliana line - some of the most colorful and inventive costume jewelry to be found. Here Frank DeLizza, head of DeLizza and Elster Inc. tells the engaging tale of his family’s odyssey in America, their embrace of jewelry-making as their foothold in a new land and the many companies, besides Juliana, they created to sell their wares. Whether he is telling an amusing anecdote about the famous names in this glamorous world, giving us an insider’s view of designer decision-making, discussing the headaches of running a business, or describing the colorful characters in his extended Italian-American family, in the end it is Frank’s warm and generous spirit that leaves an inspiring and lasting impression." To purchase this book with its packed-full pages of highly interesting commentary, copies of designs and pages of colorful jewelry and drawings, just go to Jewelry by DeLizza and order a copy of "MEMOIRS OF A FASHION JEWELRY MANUFACTURER"